You can buy a soft sugar which is heated at a higher level, still not as hot as strip sugar, but hotter than the paste. This allows you to apply it like a strip wax. When you apply it, go against the hair growth. Then use a strip to remove it.

I’ve also had good luck with using the strip sugar on the butt crack. Clients say that it hurts less than the paste and is less invasive.  Primarily I still use the paste because it is easier to do it that way if I have the product in my hand, but if the hair isn’t coming out well with the paste, try the strip sugar. Remember to apply powder first for the best results and to cause less irritation to the client’s skin.

Start Time: 10:00
Date: 2011-09-12
End Time: 15:00

Before having buzzers, I attempted using scissors–which I will never do again. It is much too tedious and I cut a client before on the labia. Yikes!

What I have found to be the best buzzer is the cordless beard and mustache trimmers with multiple attachments. I purchased mine at Walmart. They are a little smaller than the hair buzzers which allows you to get into the private areas easily. You definitely want the cordless. I originally used hair buzzers with a cord and the cord restricted be from being able to reach some important areas.

When buzzing pubic hair before a wax, ask the client if they want to leave any shape or take it all off. If they want to leave a shape, I will trim that hair a little longer than the area I am going to wax off. I’ve  had a few women and men that like to leave their long, curly hair on the top, and then wax the lower areas. In these cases, I still offer to trim it up a little, but I usually just use scissors. You always want to check with them first because if you trim the hair without asking them and then they tell you they wanted to leave it long, there is nothing you can do for them. When that has happened to me, I make a note on their chart so I know for next time, and I give them a discount on their next service, so they are more likely to come back rather than go somewhere else.

I use the 1/4 inch length guard to buzz the hair that is going to be waxed. After buzzing all the hair, I will pick up the clumps of buzzed hair and throw them away. Then I use a lint roller to pick up shavings that remain on the skin. So you had a client who came in hairy scary and now they look easy enough to wax.

I have never cut anyone with the buzzers when I had the guard on. There were some times when I buzzed the hair before laser treatments that I didn’t have a guard on, and I nicked the client. In those cases, it may have been that I didn’t stretch out the skin enough, or the blade was dull or lacking oil.

To be safe, I use a buzzer cleaning spray every other day. It keeps the buzzer oiled. I also apply the buzzer oil once a month. The oil is included with your buzzer when you first purchase it. The cleaning spray is sold separately. Never use alcohol to clean your buzzers because that will dry out the oils. What I do to keep my buzzers clean, is use a disposable eyelash applicator (or you could use pipe cleaners) to get all the excess hair off. Then, I use a medical grade sanitizer, the Lavender Oil Cleanser from Eva’s Esthetics to cleanse the whole thing. I soak my guards in Barbicide after each use.

By trimming the hair, you are not only making your job easier and quicker, you are also causing less pain to the client. It is less likely that the client will have bruising or skin removed.  When the hair is longer, your wax is pulling more on the end of the hair then the base of the hair, and causes the skin to be pulled more than necessary, which may result in bruising, but for sure, unnecessary discomfort for the client. If you wax a client while the hair is still long, you can also have problems when waxing the labia. Hair from the other side will get trapped in the wax. I recommend that you use scissors to trim the hair that is stuck from the other side, if that happens. But hopefully you can prevent that by trimming first.

Before you apply the wax, evaluate where the hair is. Some men have hair growing along the outsides of their ear, some on their ear lobe and most have hair right on the inside of their ear. Only wax where you see hair. First, I put a dab of oil on a 2×2 gauze and wipe it on both ears, making sure to get the inside of the ear and around the edges. A very small bit of oil will help the wax come off better and protect their delicate ear skin. Then I use a popsicle stick to apply the wax on the inner part of the ear first.  I make sure to use pressure so that the wax really gets wrapped around all of those stubborn hairs. Then I apply  wax to the outer edge of the ear, usually from the top of the ear down to the base. (This is a separate piece–not connected to the inner ear piece.)  I just do one ear at a time because I have them lying on the table with their head turned to the side.

The wax can take an extra few minutes to dry on the inner ear because of the client’s body heat. Usually the piece on the outer ear is done first. So remove that first. Then turn it over and use it to help tab the inner ear piece. Make sure that it is fully dry before pulling it off. Use quite a bit of strength with your pull. Men tend to have lots of thick hair in that area and a wimpy pull will not come off. I usually pinch one of the edges closer to the ear lobe and pull up and out. Then you can go to the next ear and do the same thing.

If when you pull, the wax stretches out because it isn’t dry all the way. Stop and leave it alone to dry for another minute. Then re-grip at the base of where the piece was stretching, and re-pull firmly, up and out.

If you notice hairs that didn’t come out on the first try, remember to re-oil. Then dab a little wax to those remaining hairs. Don’t go over the whole area again if it isn’t necessary. If there is only one little hair, use the tweezers to grab it out.

Before I draw the heart shape, I trim the hair down if needed to a desirable length with buzzers. Then I ask them if they want a large heart or a small heart. That gives me an idea of how much hair they want to leave. Then I use the make up pencil and draw a heart shape onto the body. Usually I have the point of the heart come right above where the labia come together. Other times I have given the client the option of covering the top of the labia. Some women are self conscious of their labia and choose to leave hair about an inch over their labia. This actually looks really cool, especially on dark hair types.

Once the shape is drawn on, double check how it looks from the clients feet or head. When you are looking straight down the body, it may look different than standing to the side of them. You want to make sure that it looks good straight on, otherwise it could be lopsided once they stand up.

Then, I start waxing or sugaring. I get the majority of the hair removed around the shape by waxing/sugaring as I normally would. Then after I am done with the full Brazilian treatment, I tidy up the heart shape. I use a small craft stick (popsicle stick size) to shape the heart like I would a brow. Then I use tweezers on any remaining hairs outside the drawing. I also use small scissors to trim the hair around the heart to get rid of any fringes that distract from the perfect heart shape.

Finally I use a lint roller to remove any tweezed hair or hair trimming from the skin. I ask the client for their approval, make any changes they like, then apply a calming spray to reduce redness. And it’s done.